Body Of Solo Climber Located On Denali After Missing Since April 30th

 UPDATE, MAY 6TH, 2022 

 

South Buttress of Denali. (NPS Photo, Mark Westman)

 

Body of Solo Climber Located on Denali

Talkeetna, AK - The body of a missing solo climber was located in Denali National Park and Preserve during a high elevation aerial search the morning of Friday, May 6. Matthias Rimml, a 35-year-old Austrian solo climber, had not been heard from since Saturday, April 30 when he made a routine check-in call via satellite phone to a friend from 18,000 feet on the West Buttress. 

Today, the third day of the search effort, aerial spotters on the park’s high altitude helicopter sighted Rimml’s body in the fall zone below Denali Pass.

Rimml likely fell on the steep traverse between Denali Pass at 18,200 feet and the 17,200-foot plateau, a notoriously treacherous stretch of the West Buttress route. Thirteen climbers, including Rimml, have died in falls along this traverse, the majority occurring on the descent.

Recovery efforts will not be attempted until an NPS ranger patrol is acclimated to high altitude and able to safely perform the recovery. 

ORIGINAL STORY:

Mountaineers in a Talkeetna Plane Hangar, A Decade Ago. (Photo, Country Journal)

Rangers Initiate Search for Solo Climber on Denali At Minus 30 Degree Temperatures

Talkeetna, AK - Denali National Park and Preserve mountaineering rangers began an aerial search for a solo climber on Denali’s West Buttress on Wednesday, May 4. Matthias Rimml, a 35-year-old professional mountain guide from Tirol, Austria, began his ascent from the 7,200-foot Kahiltna Basecamp on Wednesday, April 27. 

Already acclimatized to altitude due to recent climbs, the soloist’s strategy was to climb alpine style, or travel fast with relatively light gear. His stated goal was to complete the climb in 5 days, although he was carrying 10 days of food and fuel. His last known satellite phone call to a friend was made Saturday, April 30, at 2:00 PM. At that time, Rimml indicated he was just below Denali Pass, which is located at 18,200 feet elevation on the West Buttress.  The soloist reported being tired, but he was not in distress. It is unknown whether he intended to climb higher or return to his camp at 14,000 feet.

The soloist, as the first registered climber to attempt the 20,310-foot peak this season, is alone on the upper mountain. All other teams, including the first NPS ranger patrol, are still camped below 14,000 feet this early in the climbing season.

Rimml is not considered overdue relative to his planned return date and food and fuel supply. However, since his friend had been receiving periodic check-in calls from Rimml, he grew concerned after several days of silence and notified Denali mountaineering rangers the afternoon of May 3. The following day, the NPS helicopter pilot and a mountaineering ranger, already intending to shuttle camp gear to the 14,200-foot basin, flew the route to look for signs of the soloist. 

Intermittent cloud cover prevented a thorough search of the route, nevertheless they did not see any signs of Rimml. Searchers did observe his tent site at 14,000 feet, however no signs of recent activity were visible around the tent.  The helicopter was unable to land to due deteriorating weather and wind.

The NPS helicopter pilot and two mountaineering rangers continued the aerial search on Thursday, May 5.  Favorable weather allowed the helicopter to land at the tent site at 14,000 feet, and rangers confirmed Rimml had not returned to his camp. Clouds on the upper mountain prevented the aerial search team from flying above 17,200 feet.

Temperatures at the upper elevations on Denali have been cold this past week, reaching daytime highs between -25 F and -30 F, as is typical in the early season. Wind speeds above 17,200 feet are unknown, but weather stations at 7,200 and 14,200 feet indicate mild to moderate winds up to 30 mph over the past several days. An estimated 5 inches of new snow have fallen on the upper mountain since Saturday.

Aerial search operations of the upper mountain will continue as weather conditions allow.